Press
Articles
Gallery
Videos
Dealers
Help
Contact
Show US Pricing Show Canadian Pricing
Register
Login
Brands
Body Work
Aprilia Benelli BMW Ducati Ferrari Honda Kawasaki KTM MV Agusta Suzuki Triumph Yamaha
Parts & Accessories
Air Intake Apparel Brakes and Brake Controls Chassis Clutch and Clutch Controls Cooling Systems & Coolants Crash Protection Drivetrain (Chains & Sprockets) Electronics & Electrical Components Emissions Control Engine Components (Spark Plugs) Exhaust & Accessories Fairings / Bodywork Fender Eliminator / License Plate Holder Foot Controls Fuel Systems & Accessories Gas Cap & Accessories Graphics & Traction Pads Hand Controls Lubrication & Lubricants Mirrors and Mirror Block-Offs Nuts & Bolts & Screws & Fasteners Seat Foam & Tank Foam Services Shop Tools & Bike Stands Suspensions Thermal Shielding Windscreen Wheels
OPPRacing on Facebook
OPPRacing on YouTube
OPPRacing on YouTube
We accept VISA / MasterCard on OPPRacing
We accept AMEX / PayPal on OPPRacing
OPPRacing ships with Canada Post
OPPRacing ships with USPS
OPPRacing ships with FedEx
OPPRacing ships with UPS
SSL Certificate Authority
Please note:

Ducati Flywheel - 1990-1998 ( Carbureted )

Flywheel

WHOOPS!

Sorry, we no longer carry this product.

Your shopping cart

Item(s):
0
Total:
$0 US

Questions about this product?
E-mail us: info@oppracing.com

Look for other similar products under the same categories

Product Description

Item Summary

  • Reduces the gyroscopic effect
  • Reduce Weight from 4 pounds to 9-12 ounces
  • CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum
  • Free up existing horsepower and torque

    • About the Product

  • Nichols Manufacturing was the first to develop and manufacture aluminum flywheels for Ducatis.
  • In order to cover the entire Ducati line
  • Only manufacturer who makes six types of flywheels.
  • Decrease rotating mass and you will increase performance.
  • This also reduces the gyroscopic effect of the components, which means your motorcycle will move from side to side with less effort. tock flywheel weighs more than 4 pounds.
  • Flywheels weigh 9 to 12 ounces(!) depending on the application.
  • CNC machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and use steel inserts to trigger the timing sensors.
  • The assemblies are balanced.
  • Flywheels will free up existing horsepower and torque, and increase engine braking


    Installation Instructions

    1. Place bike on swing-arm stand, and remove fairings.

    2. Remove the following: a) counter sprocket cover b) clutch slave cylinder c) oil lines that feed into the left side of the engine d) trace the alternator wires and disconnect the two plugs e) remove the two bolts which hold the kick-stand to the engine case f) mark and remove the gear lever

    3. Remove the 13 cover-bolts with a 5mm Allen-wrench. Mark and remove them in order, as they are different lengths.

    4. Remove the side cover (some persuasion may be required, BE VERY CAREFUL, the cover is easy to break, and you may need a LIGHTLY rap on the edges in several spots with a plastic hammer).

    5. Catch any oil that is draining out, (this is the perfect time to change you oil).

    6. Remove the 3mm allens that hold the inductive pickups to the bracket located below the flywheel.

    7. Remove the nut and washer from the end of the crankshaft. You will need to use an impact wrench, and hold the rotor with your hand to prevent the crank from turning.

    8. Remove the rotor and the key from the key-way on the crank. Note both the orientation of the key and which side of the rotor faces the flywheel. You must replace these in the same way.

    9. Before removing the flywheel and starter-gear, please note the orientation of the crankshaft key-way and the dimple on the flywheel center piece. Remove the flywheel.

    10. Remover the starter-gear, bearing, sleeve, and shim from the back of the flywheel. The shim sometimes remains on the crankshaft.

    11. Remove the bolts from the back of the flywheel. These bolts hold the splined center piece to the steel piece, which you are replacing. They are secured with Loktite and must be removed carefully so as to not damage the heads. Use the hex-bit that is in good condition so that you do not round out the heads. Remove the dowel pin that orients the two pieces.

    12. Clean the mating face of the center piece and the threads of the bolts. Then you can install the dowel-pin into the center piece and mount the flywheel to it. Make sure to insert the dowel in the proper hole in each part and make sure the retaining clip remains secure on the dowel. If this clip comes off the dowel, the dowel may come loose from the assembly. You do not want this to happen. Secure the threads using RED Loctite #272. Torque to 70 inch pounds (8 to 10 KgM).

    13. Reinstall the starter gear, bearing, sleeve and shim into the flywheel, and mount on the crankshaft. The shim MUST NOT SLIP OFF during the re-assembly. A small dab of grease will help to hold the shim in place. Align the dimple on the splined center piece with the key-way in the crankshaft. THIS ORIENTATION IS CRITICAL. You may find it necessary to rotate the starter gear while installing the assembly onto the crankshaft.

    14. Reinstall the key, the rotor, washer, and nut. Make sure to remove all residue of old Loktite from both the nut and the crankshaft. Use RED Loctite #272 on the nut. Torque to 100-130 ft pounds.

    15. Reinstall the pickups and set the gap between them and the trigger on the flywheel at .027 (+/- .004) inches to 0.7mm, (+/- 0.1mm).

    16. Locate the two screws securing the alternator-coil in the left side engine cover. Replace these screws with the supplied button head screws. This provides additional clearance between the flywheel and the screw heads.

    17. The remainder of the re-assembly is the reverse of the above instructions. Torque the cover screws to 70 inch pounds or 0.8 to 1.0 KgM.

    THROTTLE RESPONSE WILL BE SIGNIFICANTLY QUICKER WITH THIS FLYWHEEL. BE SMOOTH WITH YOUR THROTTLE APPLICATION.